Bacharach, The Rhine
November 25, 2001
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A crackling bonfire drew us into this courtyard. It was a lively place, warm and full of people -- a haven from the cold streets that we'd been walking while touring this medieval town along the Rhine. It led right onto a pub, in a building which had once been the town's post office. In there, we had apple juice, beer, and a plate of venison cold cuts.
People were smoking in the bar, and Jen commented to a German woman how you can't smoke indoors in California, even in a bar. She took a drag off her cigarette and said, "It must be terrible to live in America."