Chasing an Eclipse
Costa Rica
April 6-10, 2005
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What started out as loose talk around the Thanksgiving
table between my nephew Dan and I ended up as a long
weekend road trip through southern
Costa Rica, driving south over mountains and through valleys
on Highway 2, in search of a solar eclipse at 4:02 p.m. on
April 8.
Along the way, we ate a lot of arroz con pollo,
tracked the battle between Imperial and Pilsen for the hearts and souls of the beer drinkers
of southern Costa Rica, explained ourselves to policemen at five highway checkpoints,
lost my favorite
hat, hung out with conmen and prostitutes
at the Panama border, kayaked at Golfito, listened to many hours of mixes
on the iPod, trespassed in a closed wildlife preserve
in search of monkeys (didn't see any!), broke the toilet at a $10-a-night motel room,
and saw a lot of pretty countryside.
Ten minutes before the eclipse, we stood in the pouring rain at a fried food
stand at la frontera explaining our purpose to the friendly pimp who
ran the show at that corner. "Eclipse?" he laughed and pointed at the black rain
clouds. "Maybe if you were in Puntarenas," he told us in Spanish. We gave him
1000 colones ($2.50) for his trouble and 1000 each to the two toughs who had
watched our car for us, then made our way up the road a bit where, at 4:06,
the sky darkened, a weird yellow dark, which lasted 4 or 5 minutes before
brightening.
Then we headed north again.
The day before we had left, I had talked with a colleague who had just returned
from a family vacation in the northwest of Costa Rica, bustling with zip lines and
lodges with balconies overlooking fiery volcanoes. "The whole place is
set up for tourism," he told me. Maybe I'll find out next year, when I take
the family to that region. But I'm here to tell you that the south is not.
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